At the beginning of every month, I make a fresh batch of lard. I swing by my local butcher shop and lug home bags of leaf lard, the ropey-looking section of pork fat that clings to the pig's kidney ...

This versatile fat makes my tamales, fried chicken, noodles, and baked goods so much better. Depending on the batch, lard's flavor can range from distinctly meaty to neutral and all-but flavorless.